‘See turtles or your money back,’ says the sign on the beach. A smiling local hands out 1FLY and shakes the hands of passersby. Occasionally they stop and a few coins change hands. Looking across the bay, there are five or six more similar 2OPERATE. They either rent out small boats with 20hp 3BOARD motors or will book you aboard a glass bottom boat. This is Laganas, the main tourist town in the Ionian island of Zakynthos. As the name suggests, Laganas was once a lagoon, and thirty years ago supported one of the largest 4FLAMBOYANT of flamingos in Europe. Now it’s a 5DEPRESS strip of poor quality apartments and tourist clutter. The decline of the Greek economy lends a sense of 6DESPERATE and the turtles are one of the few things the town still has going for it. Laganas’s sprint to capture the tourist money and the inspiration it offers to other resorts to cash in is 7TYPICAL. It runs counter to the more 8MEASURE development and emphasis on scenery, landscape and culture of the island’s neighbours.